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+ Log & Blog December / Dec 15

 Progress log and blog report

15 DECEMBER 2005 - An unexpected second day at Ushuaia

Alan, Ivor and Julian took their cars for welding at 9am, as arranged, expecting to be away by mid day. Unfortunately no welder turned up! Back to the blond Schumacher’s place who then led them to an enthusiastic welder who worked on his own. This meant Alan had to work with him, fire extinguisher and bucket of water in hand. It was slow going, Ivor’s corrosion was more extensive than thought, the floor pan of the car was also weak, which needed connecting to the outrigger, which connected to the spring hanger – I think there is a song about that! Basically by mid day it was clear it was going to take all day. Chris & I had pounded the streets of Ushuaia in the vain hope of finding a bargain, but settled for a coffee and some impossibly sweet cakes. When we heard the news it was too late to do much in terms of tours, but a kind lady at the tourist info recommended a walk along the point past the lighthouse.

We hopped in the Westland, got as far as the hotel entrance and were stopped by a gentleman who was from the Ushuaia classic car club! He invited us all to the monthly meeting which was happening that night at the club president’s house, who happened to own a BL Routemaster bus from the late 60s! We agreed to meet him at 8pm at the hotel and introduce him to the others.

Walk-by-the-point

The walk along the point was beautiful. Windswept trees with small beech like leaves, amazing flowers nestling in the grass, odd oblong orange fruit with gelatinous centres hung off all the trees from lumps on their trunks. Whether cancer, parasite, fungus or fruit we didn’t know. But cutting one open we think fruit – no we didn’t try any.

Trees

Fruiting-bodies

Fast flowing streams, close cut pasture grazed by Hereford cows(!), wonderful views of Ushuaia  - the whole walk was great. Perhaps the highlight was creeping up under a tree on which an Argentinean Woodpecker was busy hunting for grubs.

Herefords

The-woodpecker

A large bird, over a foot long, bright red head and neck with a crest – this bird was really laying into a tree to get the bugs. Bits of tree were falling everywhere! The only pity about the walk was the litter, broken glass, plastic – it was fairly common.

Chris and Julian had thought of doing some fishing while we were there, but there was never really enough time. It also turned out that fishing at the end of the world is a rich man’s game. Celebrities like Sylvester Stallone started it, and now it is big business. Permits and guides cost a lot of money for a days fishing.

The-viewpoint

We cut the walk short when we heard the guys were back at the hotel at about 4. We explained about the car club, everyone was keen to go – but on the proviso we would be back by 11pm as it had been decided that to make up lost time we would leave at 5.30am tomorrow. Mornings are my worst time, but for the sake of catching up I was happy to go for it.

Alan, Chris and I then decided we still had enough time before 8pm to go to see the glacier at the National Park. A roughly 10km pleasant drive out of town up a good road took us to a chair lift. A ride to the top and then a walk for something over an hour gave us excellent views over the bay and the city. The glacier was a bit of a let down, it must have been very small, or a long way away hidden by clouds!

Is-there-a-glacier-there?

Back to the hotel and enough time to throw some water on my face and down to meet Diago from the car club. He was so pleased we could come and understood our time limitation. Julian gave him a lift in his car and when we arrived the local TV crew was there. They filmed the cars, asked questions, Diago acted as interpreter and they left. We were then able to meet our host, the President of the Club, Luis Vuoto, his lovely wife and daughter and all the other members of the club.

The-club-president-and-his-wife

Other classics arrived, a short wheel base Landrover Series II, a 1960s Ford Cortina and a 70s Renault 4. Many members, including Diago, had some very exotic multi-cylindered metal, but not in Ushuaia. Buenos Aires seems to be where many of these cars are kept, away from the extreme weather. The President had built a garage big enough for two Routemaster busses and was looking at importing a second. No mean task, as he has to hire a special boat with a crane to unload it from the container ship. This one was painted blue – because during the Falklands conflict he had been told people did not like looking at this English symbol and someone took a shot at it!

It was a very social car club, everyone brought food and drink and a big barbeque was started in a large customised oil drum. Sadly though it was time for us to go and find some fast food before bed.

One thing we often notice is how English/ European many local people look, but as Diago explained the 20 families that started Tierra Del Fuego off were largely British and their families are still here and still powerful. We found that throughout Argentina, the British influence and affinity is very strong, which makes the past conflict all the more tragic.

So after steak and chips in town it was time to set the alarm for 5.15am!

It-can-be-windy

 

The-other-side-of-Ushuaia

 
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