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13 DECEMBER 2005 - The end of the world - Ushuaia
It was with some excitement we left Rio Grande headed for Ushuaia. Ok it wasn’t the most southerly tip we could drive to, but on the mainland it was the most southern, and most famous, city.
We passed an air base in Rio Grande and statue proclaiming the Malvinas are Argentinean. With these daily reminders of the British conflict the warmth from people is all the more remarkable. I guess they, like us, look to the politicians for the reasons for the conflict rather than the people of Britain or Argentina.
The road was paved, but uneven and soon the mountains we glimpsed from our hotel started to come more clearly into view. We even saw some trees! Long thin, with deeply wrinkled bark and oval leaves, they are a relative of the cherry and covered with long strands of lichen. It was good to see trees again. After 130km still all on Rn 3 (Rn 3 measures the distance from Buenos Aires every km, we had broken the 3,000km barrier) we were back on gravel. This was dusty. So dusty that sometimes you couldn’t see the side of the road or the lorry in front and the car would start to cough as much as we did. All you could do when the road turned that bad was to drop back and wait for a better bit of road to pass these very slow moving lorries (usually car transporters taking cars to the busy container port base at Ushuaia). We will probably be one of the last to travel these roads in this condition as work was already starting to tarmac them. When that is done Ushuaia will expand even more rapidly.
The views became more and more beautiful, the lakes larger and deeper and the roads more twisty. We really felt we were there now.


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When we finally saw Ushuaia we were surprised how big it was already. The place had the atmosphere of a busy ski-resort. Expensive shops, lots of atmosphere.

We had again reserved ahead for 2 nights (can get the laundry done, hooray) at the Hotel Canal Beagle. A very smart hotel right on the water front. We arrived about 2pm and went for lunch. A barbecued lamb was most welcome. Then it was down to the real business. The cars. Alan and I went over to a recommended Automobile Association of Argentina garage and persuaded them that RAC membership in the UK gave us access to their garage. Lots of smiles and handshakes and we got all cars booked in for 9am next morning. Hopefully between them, Alan and I we should really be able to inspect the cars, tighten any loose bits, clean the air filters (again) and grease them up. The others will have a day to explore, we will hopefully get half a day, but may make some mechanic friends!
Tonight is our last night with our Brazilian guardian angels as they have a 6,000km drive they have to complete by next Monday morning, so they can be back at work! The Hylux is not having any problems, they don’t arrive dusty, wind blown and cold at their destinations. They even kip in the car. In fact – they can’t be having much fun at all!!
We all met in the bar, as usual. The hotel was preparing for a private party and a band was ‘tuning up’ in the background. Ivor (a real music buff) was commenting on their electric guitar and vocal techniques. Luckily it was so noisy we couldn’t hear him!
It was then time to look for a restaurant. Our first choice was packed out, in fact the only one with room was a very posh looking place with prices to match. But now was our chance to try King Crab and most of us went for it. This huge crab was reduced for us into a pile of while and pink flesh, with a tub of mayonnaise on the side it did taste good. Sweet and fresh. The waiter carefully collected the shell, no doubt to be used again for the next customer.
An excellent meal, good company, overlooking the harbour and the cruise ships. We would be sorry to see the Brazilians go tomorrow. It was nice to have guardian angels but even nicer to have their company.
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